Grading Systems
A comprehensive guide to climbing grade systems supported by Chalky.
Overview
Climbing grades indicate the difficulty of a route. Different regions and disciplines use different grading systems. Chalky supports all major systems and can convert between them.
Bouldering Grades
V-Scale (Hueco)
The V-scale is the most common bouldering grade system in Australia and the USA.
| Grade | Description |
|---|---|
| VB | Beginner — Large holds, low angle |
| V0-V1 | Novice — Basic techniques |
| V2-V3 | Intermediate — Technical moves, smaller holds |
| V4-V5 | Advanced — Requires specific training |
| V6-V7 | Expert — Technical proficiency required |
| V8-V9 | Elite — Top-tier recreational climber |
| V10+ | Professional — World-class difficulty |
Fontainebleau (Font)
The Font scale originated in France and is common in Europe.
| V-Scale | Font | Description |
|---|---|---|
| VB | 3 | Beginner |
| V0 | 4 | Easy |
| V1 | 4+ | Novice |
| V2 | 5 | Intermediate |
| V3 | 5+ | Intermediate-Advanced |
| V4 | 6A/6A+ | Advanced |
| V5 | 6B/6B+ | Advanced |
| V6 | 6C/6C+ | Expert |
| V7 | 7A | Expert |
| V8 | 7A+ | Elite |
| V9 | 7B/7B+ | Elite |
| V10 | 7C | World-class |
Conversions are approximate. Grades can vary based on style, conditions and the specific route.
Sport Climbing Grades
Ewbank (Australian)
The Ewbank system is open-ended and used in Australia.
| Ewbank | Description |
|---|---|
| 1-10 | Beginner — Scrambling to easy climbing |
| 11-15 | Novice — Basic vertical climbing |
| 16-19 | Intermediate — Steeper rock, smaller holds |
| 20-23 | Advanced — Requires dedicated training |
| 24-27 | Expert — High technical ability |
| 28-31 | Elite — Professional level |
| 32+ | World-class — Cutting edge |
French
The French system is widely used in Europe and increasingly worldwide.
| French | Ewbank | YDS |
|---|---|---|
| 4 | 13 | 5.6 |
| 5a | 15 | 5.7 |
| 5b | 16 | 5.8 |
| 5c | 17 | 5.9 |
| 6a | 18 | 5.10a |
| 6a+ | 19 | 5.10b |
| 6b | 20 | 5.10c |
| 6b+ | 21 | 5.10d |
| 6c | 22 | 5.11a |
| 6c+ | 23 | 5.11b |
| 7a | 24 | 5.11c |
| 7a+ | 25 | 5.11d |
| 7b | 26 | 5.12a |
| 7b+ | 27 | 5.12b |
| 7c | 28 | 5.12c |
| 7c+ | 29 | 5.12d |
| 8a | 30 | 5.13a |
YDS (Yosemite Decimal System)
The YDS is common in the USA.
The system uses a format like 5.10a, where:
- 5 indicates technical rock climbing
- 10 is the difficulty
- a/b/c/d is the sub-grade
Trad Climbing
Trad climbing often uses the same grades as sport climbing, but may include additional information about protection difficulty or danger:
- R — Runout; protection is sparse
- X — Extremely dangerous; falls could be fatal
- PG-13 — Protection is adequate but not abundant
Other Supported Systems
Chalky also supports these systems, selectable per discipline in Settings:
- UIAA — Roman-numeral sport grades (e.g. VI, VIII+), used across central Europe.
- British Trad — The UK's two-part grade: an adjectival overall grade (e.g. VS, E1) plus a technical grade (e.g. 4c, 5a).
- Water Ice (WI) — Ice-climbing grades (e.g. WI3, WI5) reflecting steepness, length and protection.
- M-Scale (Mixed) — Mixed rock-and-ice grades (e.g. M4, M8) for dry-tooling and mixed routes.
- Aid — Aid-climbing grades: A0–A5 (aid) and C0–C5 (clean aid).
Setting Your Preferred System
- Go to Settings
- Under Grade Preferences, choose your preferred system for each discipline (bouldering, sport, trad)
Routes you log will display in your chosen system, and you can enter grades in any system. Chalky converts automatically.
Grade Inflation
Be aware that grades can vary:
- Gym grades — Often softer than outdoor grades
- Regional variation — Some areas grade harder/softer
- Age of route — Older routes may be sandbagged
- Personal style — Some grades suit your strengths
Use grades as a rough guide, not an absolute measure.