Grading Systems
A comprehensive guide to climbing grade systems supported by Chalky.
Overview
Climbing grades indicate the difficulty of a route. Different regions and disciplines use different grading systems. Chalky supports all major systems and can convert between them.
Bouldering Grades
V-Scale (Hueco)
The V-scale is the most common bouldering grade system in Australia and the USA.
| Grade | Description |
|---|---|
| VB | Beginner — Large holds, low angle |
| V0-V1 | Novice — Basic techniques |
| V2-V3 | Intermediate — Technical moves, smaller holds |
| V4-V5 | Advanced — Requires specific training |
| V6-V7 | Expert — Technical proficiency required |
| V8-V9 | Elite — Top-tier recreational climber |
| V10+ | Professional — World-class difficulty |
Fontainebleau (Font)
The Font scale originated in France and is common in Europe.
| V-Scale | Font | Description |
|---|---|---|
| VB | 3 | Beginner |
| V0 | 4 | Easy |
| V1 | 4+ | Novice |
| V2 | 5 | Intermediate |
| V3 | 5+ | Intermediate-Advanced |
| V4 | 6A/6A+ | Advanced |
| V5 | 6B/6B+ | Advanced |
| V6 | 6C/6C+ | Expert |
| V7 | 7A | Expert |
| V8 | 7A+ | Elite |
| V9 | 7B/7B+ | Elite |
| V10 | 7C | World-class |
Conversions are approximate. Grades can vary based on style, conditions, and the specific route.
Sport Climbing Grades
Ewbank (Australian)
The Ewbank system is open-ended and used in Australia.
| Ewbank | Description |
|---|---|
| 1-10 | Beginner — Scrambling to easy climbing |
| 11-15 | Novice — Basic vertical climbing |
| 16-19 | Intermediate — Steeper rock, smaller holds |
| 20-23 | Advanced — Requires dedicated training |
| 24-27 | Expert — High technical ability |
| 28-31 | Elite — Professional level |
| 32+ | World-class — Cutting edge |
French
The French system is widely used in Europe and increasingly worldwide.
| French | Ewbank | YDS |
|---|---|---|
| 4 | 13 | 5.6 |
| 5a | 15 | 5.7 |
| 5b | 16 | 5.8 |
| 5c | 17 | 5.9 |
| 6a | 18 | 5.10a |
| 6a+ | 19 | 5.10b |
| 6b | 20 | 5.10c |
| 6b+ | 21 | 5.10d |
| 6c | 22 | 5.11a |
| 6c+ | 23 | 5.11b |
| 7a | 24 | 5.11c |
| 7a+ | 25 | 5.11d |
| 7b | 26 | 5.12a |
| 7b+ | 27 | 5.12b |
| 7c | 28 | 5.12c |
| 7c+ | 29 | 5.12d |
| 8a | 30 | 5.13a |
YDS (Yosemite Decimal System)
The YDS is common in the USA.
The system uses a format like 5.10a, where:
- 5 indicates technical rock climbing
- 10 is the difficulty
- a/b/c/d is the sub-grade
Trad Climbing
Trad climbing often uses the same grades as sport climbing, but may include additional information about protection difficulty or danger:
- R — Runout; protection is sparse
- X — Extremely dangerous; falls could be fatal
- PG-13 — Protection is adequate but not abundant
Setting Your Preferred System
- Go to Settings > Preferences
- Tap Grading System
- Select your preferred system for each discipline
Routes you log will display in your chosen system, and you can enter grades in any system — Chalky converts automatically.
Grade Inflation
Be aware that grades can vary:
- Gym grades — Often softer than outdoor grades
- Regional variation — Some areas grade harder/softer
- Age of route — Older routes may be sandbagged
- Personal style — Some grades suit your strengths
Use grades as a rough guide, not an absolute measure.