Climbing Terminology
A glossary of climbing terms used in Chalky.
Send Types
Flash
Completing a route on your first attempt with prior knowledge of the moves (beta). You may have watched someone climb it, read about it, or received verbal instructions.
Onsight
Completing a route on your first attempt with no prior knowledge. This is considered the purest style of ascent — you see the route for the first time and send it without any information about the moves.
Redpoint
Completing a route cleanly after previous attempts. Most climbers' hardest sends are redpoints — you work the moves, refine your beta, and eventually link it all together.
Second Go
Sending a route on your second attempt. This sits between a flash and a redpoint in terms of style.
Project
A route you're actively working on but haven't sent yet. Projects are typically at or near your limit.
Climbing Styles
Boulder / Bouldering
Climbing short, powerful routes (problems) without a rope, using crash pads for protection. Typically under 5 metres tall.
Sport Climbing
Rope climbing where protection is pre-placed (bolts) in the rock. The climber clips quickdraws to the bolts as they ascend.
Trad (Traditional) Climbing
Rope climbing where the climber places removable protection (cams, nuts) in natural features of the rock. Requires additional skills and gear.
Top Rope
Climbing with the rope already anchored at the top of the route. Common in gyms and for beginners outdoors.
Beta
Information about how to climb a route. Beta can include:
- Sequence — The order of moves
- Foot placement — Where to step
- Body position — How to orient yourself
- Rest positions — Where to recover
"Spraying beta" means giving unsolicited advice about how to climb a route.
Common Terms
Attempt
Any serious try at a route. An attempt begins when you leave the ground and ends when you either send or fall/give up.
Crux
The hardest section of a route. A route may have multiple cruxes.
Send
Successfully completing a route. "I sent that V5" means you climbed it without falling.
Tick
Recording a send in your logbook. "Ticking routes" means logging your ascents.
Top Out
Climbing to the very top of a boulder problem, standing on top. Some problems finish with a controlled jump down instead.
Dab
Accidentally touching the ground, a spotter, or another surface mid-climb. A dab typically invalidates a send attempt.
Barn Door
When your body swings out uncontrollably to the side, like a door opening on a hinge. Usually happens when you lack a counter-balancing foothold.
Overhang
A wall or route that tilts outward past vertical. Overhanging climbing is more physically demanding.
Slab
A gently angled wall that relies on balance and footwork rather than strength. Typically less than vertical.
Dyno
A dynamic move where both hands (and often feet) leave the rock simultaneously. Short for "dynamic."
Static
Controlled, precise movement using balance and reach. The opposite of dynamic climbing.
Pump / Pumped
The feeling of forearm fatigue from sustained climbing. Being "pumped" means your grip strength is depleted.
Campus
Climbing using only hands — no feet on the wall. Campus boards are training tools for this style.
Hold Types
Crimp
A small hold that requires a crimped grip (fingers bent at the first knuckle). Can be "half crimp" or "full crimp." Small edge gripped with bent fingers and thumb over the top.
Jug
A large, positive hold that's easy to grip. Short for "jug hold."
Sloper
A hold without a defined edge, requiring an open-handed grip and body tension. Smooth, rounded hold relying on friction.
Pinch
A hold that requires squeezing with thumb and fingers.
Edge
A thin, flat hold requiring precise finger placement.
A hold with one or more finger holes.
In-cut
A handhold that has a lip or feature that allows fingers to hook behind it.
Crack
A split in the rock for jamming fingers, hands, or feet.
Volume
A large wall feature (in gyms) that changes the route shape or angle.
Gaston
A move where you push outward on a hold rather than pulling inward.
Undercling
A hold used from below, pulling upward with palms facing up.
Techniques
Flagging
Extending a leg to counterbalance and prevent swinging (barn-dooring).
Match
Placing both hands or feet on the same hold.
Smear
Pressing shoe rubber directly against the wall for friction, without using a defined foothold.
Toe Hook
Using the top of your toes to pull against a hold.
Heel Hook
Using your heel to pull or stabilise on a hold.
Dead Point
A controlled, dynamic move where you catch the next hold at the apex of your movement.
Drop Knee
Twisting your knee inward to lower your centre of gravity and reach further.
Cross Through
Reaching one hand across your body to the next hold.
Mantle
Pressing down on a ledge to push your body up and over, like getting out of a pool.
Layback
Pulling on an edge while pushing feet against the wall for leverage.
Stemming
Pressing between two walls or features for stability, common in corners and chimneys.
Straight Arms
Keeping arms extended to conserve energy. Bent arms fatigue faster.
Climb with Your Feet
Using your legs to push upward instead of pulling with arms. A fundamental technique for efficiency.
Session Terms
Volume
The total amount of climbing in a session, often measured in routes or moves.
Density
How much climbing you pack into a session's duration. High density = lots of climbing, low rest.
Warming Up
Easy climbing to prepare muscles and tendons for harder efforts.
Cooling Down
Easy climbing after hard efforts to aid recovery.
Rest Day
A day without climbing, allowing recovery and adaptation.
Resting
Using easier stances mid-climb to shake out and recover before continuing.
Locations
Crag
An outdoor climbing area, typically a cliff or collection of boulders.
Gym
An indoor climbing facility with artificial walls and holds.
Project Wall / Board
A training wall with pre-set problems, often overhanging.
Spray Wall
A training wall covered in holds with no set routes — you create your own problems.